Reference
Methods compared
Fifteen ways to deal with food scraps and yard waste, compared on space, what each takes, the attention it asks for, how long it takes and what it still needs from you. Marked from your setup.
Each row is one way to handle food scraps or yard waste. Read across a row to see what the method needs and what it gives back. Every cell draws on the source named in that row or in the cell: agency and extension guides for piles, bins and tumblers, extension and city sheets for worm bins and bokashi, and city programs for drop-off and curbside collection. Attention is described as tasks and how often, because no source we read gives a time per week for any method. Times to usable material are the range each named source gives, under its own conditions, and your pile may take longer.
The filter buttons keep the rows that fit a space or an attention level. A method that fits at one attention level also fits at every higher level, so "Low attention" shows the drop-off rows, the trench and the slow bins. No method is best. The green box below marks the rows that fit the space and attention you chose in setup. It does not rank them.
| Method | Space it needs | What it takes | Attention | Time to usable material | Does it heat | Animal resistance | What you still need | Sources |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Food scrap drop-off Chapter | No outdoor space. A place indoors for a lidded container; the freezer works. | Food scraps: yes. Meat, fish and dairy: depends on the site. In New York City the smart bins take all food scraps and most community sites do not take meat, fish, bones, dairy, oil or prepared food (NYC drop-off page). Yard waste: that page lists leaf and yard waste and houseplants among what sites take. | Fill a lidded container and carry it to the site on its open days. Empty or freeze the container every few days and wash it at least weekly (Portland compost tips). | Not your timeline. The program composts the material, and no source read gives a time for a household. | Not your system. The sources read do not describe the site's process. | Not a home bin question. The kitchen container needs a tight lid; fruit flies are the usual kitchen problem (Kitchen and collection). | A site within reach, its hours, what it takes and its liner rule (ILSR map, BioCycle locator list sites). | NYC drop-off page, Portland compost tips, ILSR map, BioCycle locator |
| Curbside food scrap collection Chapter | No outdoor space. A kitchen container and a place for the collection cart or bin. | Food scraps: yes. Meat, fish and dairy: set by the program. New York City's curbside list includes meat, bones and dairy (NYC curbside page). Yard waste: often collected with it. Portland's green cart takes food scraps with yard waste (Portland compost tips). | Fill the kitchen container, empty it into the cart, and set the cart out on collection day. Wash the container at least weekly (Portland compost tips). | Not your timeline. The program composts it, and no source read gives a time for a household. | Not your system. The sources read do not describe the program's process. | A lidded cart and a closed kitchen container. Rules on liners and cart care are the program's. | A city or county that collects food scraps, its list of what goes in, and its liner rule. Collection and fines are local rules that vary. | NYC curbside page, Portland compost tips |
| Worm bin, indoors Chapter | Any space, including none outdoors. EPA, Composting at Home says an indoor bin can sit under a sink, in a closet or in a basement. | Food scraps: small, regular amounts of fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds and tea bags; bedding of shredded paper. Meat, fish and dairy: no (Oregon State EM 9034). Yard waste: not sized for it. | Feed small amounts buried under bedding, daily or weekly (NYC worm bin brochure). Keep the bedding as damp as a wrung-out sponge. Harvest by moving the worms to one side over about a month (NYC worm bin brochure). | About four months (NC State AG-473-18); three to six months (Oregon State EM 9034, NYC worm bin brochure); six to twelve months (WSU Thurston worms). | No. The aim is to keep the bin roughly between 59 and 77°F (NC State AG-473-18); other sources give a range from 55 to 80°F. | Indoors the usual visitor is the fruit fly. Bury food, cover it with damp paper and freeze fruit first (Oregon State EM 9034, NYC worm bin brochure). | Red wiggler worms (Eisenia fetida) from a worm grower, a bin, bedding and a spot kept in the temperature range. Meat, dairy and yard waste need another route; NC State AG-473-18 suggests a backyard bin or program for excess scraps, citrus, onions and garlic. | NC State AG-473-18, Oregon State EM 9034, WSU Thurston worms, EPA, Composting at Home, NYC worm bin brochure |
| Worm bin, outdoors in shade Chapter | A balcony or yard spot in shade (EPA, Composting at Home). Oregon State EM 9034 prefers the north side of a structure, out of rain and wind. | Same as the indoor bin: small amounts of fruit and vegetable scraps and bedding. Meat, fish and dairy: no. Yard waste: not sized for it. | Same feeding and moisture checks as the indoor bin. Outdoors, watch the bin's temperature in each season. | The same ranges as the indoor bin: about four months to a year, by source (NC State AG-473-18, Oregon State EM 9034, WSU Thurston worms). | No. Keep out of direct sun. In cold weather Oregon State EM 9034 suggests a frost-free space or burying the bin's lower half and insulating it, and says worms may still die in an unusually cold or wet winter. | Oregon State EM 9034 says an outdoor bin needs securing against rodents, raccoons and other animals. | Shade, a bin an animal cannot open, and a plan for winter and for hot weeks. | EPA, Composting at Home, Oregon State EM 9034, NC State AG-473-18, WSU Thurston worms |
| Bokashi with burial or a soil factory Chapter | A bucket indoors, or on a balcony. Burial needs soil: a garden, a lidded bin of soil (a soil factory) or a compost pile (WSU Kitsap bokashi, USask bokashi). | Food scraps: yes, including cooked food. Meat, fish and dairy: meat, dairy and small bones are listed as accepted; soups, sauces and free liquids are not (WSU Kitsap bokashi). Yard waste: not part of the method. | Layer scraps with bran and press out the air at each addition. Drain the liquid every few days. When the bucket is full, seal it to ferment, then bury it (WSU Kitsap bokashi). | About two weeks to ferment (WSU Kitsap bokashi), then a wait in soil before planting: at least two weeks and ideally three to four (WSU Kitsap bokashi); six to eight weeks outdoors (USask bokashi). The result is not finished compost until it breaks down in soil or a pile. | No. WSU Kitsap bokashi calls bokashi fermentation, not decomposition. | A sealed bucket gives little odor. Once buried, depth matters: at least 8 inches (NC State Beaufort bokashi); 8 to 12 inches (WSU Kitsap bokashi). | A bucket (two lets one ferment while the other fills, RDCK bokashi sheet), bran, and soil or a pile to finish the material in. No independent study of home results was found. | RDCK bokashi sheet, WSU Kitsap bokashi, USask bokashi, NC State Beaufort bokashi |
| Trench or pit composting Chapter | Ground you can dig, such as a garden bed or its paths. | Food scraps: yes (vegetables, fruit, coffee grounds, eggshells, grain products). Meat, fish and dairy: no (USask trench, Nebraska trench). Yard waste: green plants and grass clippings (USask trench). | Dig a hole or trench 12 to 18 inches deep, add scraps, and cover with 6 to 8 inches of soil (USask trench). Dig a new hole for the next batch. No further tending. | Plant directly into the trench area after three to six months (USask trench); one month to one year (Nebraska trench). | No source read describes it as heating. | Buried food can be dug up. Maryland how-to says trenching works best in fenced gardens that keep out raccoons, possums and groundhogs. Nebraska trench backfills with at least 8 inches of soil. | A garden to dig in, a shovel, and a plan for winter, when frozen ground cannot be dug (USask trench suggests storing scraps frozen until spring). | USask trench, Nebraska trench, Maryland how-to |
| Sheet or lasagna composting Chapter | A spot for a new bed, about 3 feet wide (Oregon State EM 9559). | Food scraps: kitchen vegetable scraps and coffee grounds as nitrogen layers. Meat, fish and dairy: the source does not list them. Yard waste: fresh grass, leaves and straw as layers. | Build the bed once: overlapping plain cardboard, then alternating layers of nitrogen and carbon material, ending with carbon. Cover kitchen scraps with a carbon blanket against flies (Oregon State EM 9559). Then wait. | About six months or longer (Oregon State EM 9559, Oregon State EM 9475); Oregon State EM 9559 suggests starting in fall for spring planting. | Little or no heat (Oregon State EM 9559). | The source gives no rating. Covering kitchen scraps with a carbon layer is its fly measure. | Plain brown cardboard with tape and staples removed, a large supply of browns, and a place for a bed. It may not smother blackberry, bindweed, morning glory or quackgrass (Oregon State EM 9559). | Oregon State EM 9559, Oregon State EM 9475 |
| In-ground digester Chapter | Soil that drains, and sun (Banyule green cone guide). It needs a hole about 2 feet deep for the basket. | Food scraps: yes, including cooked food. Meat, fish and dairy: yes (Banyule green cone guide, NC State handbook). Yard waste: no. The council says the cone is not a composter and will not handle garden waste. | Add scraps as they come. The council's guide gives about a 4.5-liter container every 1 to 2 days in summer for one cone, and says the basket should need emptying every 2 to 3 years for a family of four (Banyule green cone guide). | No source gives one. It is a way to put food into the soil, not a way to make compost you collect. | No source read describes heat. | No source read rates it. Check what your area's animals do before burying meat or bones. | A cone product, a drainage test (water should disappear within 10 to 15 minutes, Banyule green cone guide), a sunny spot and a separate route for garden waste. The guide is a council's advice on one product type. | Banyule green cone guide, NC State handbook |
| Tumbler Chapter | A balcony or yard spot with room to turn the drum. RDCK tumbler sheet says a 7.5 cubic foot model is generally large enough for a family of four with no yard. | Food scraps: yes, with browns mixed in about 1:1 by volume (RDCK tumbler sheet). Meat, fish and dairy: small amounts of cooked food only; meat is not recommended. Yard waste: browns, yes; a tumbler holds a small volume (LSU 3838-L). | Rotate the tumbler daily, or at least several times a week (Oregon State EM 9475); RDCK tumbler sheet says one to four times a week. When it is full, stop adding and let it rest about six to eight weeks (RDCK tumbler sheet). | About six to eight weeks of rest once full (RDCK tumbler sheet); that sheet warns against units claiming finished compost in under four weeks. | Sometimes, but small two-chamber models are too small to insulate themselves in a cold winter (Oregon State tumbler answer). LSU 3838-L says a tumbler does not kill weed seed or pathogens. | More pest and wildlife resistant than a pile on the ground, and not bear proof (RDCK tumbler sheet). Oregon State tumbler answer says tumblers raised off the ground are animal-proof but not insect-proof. | A tumbler (RDCK gives a cost range of $100 to $1,000), a steady supply of browns, and partial shade for plastic units. Two units, or a two-chamber one, let one fill while the other rests. | RDCK tumbler sheet, LSU 3838-L, Oregon State EM 9475, Oregon State tumbler answer |
| Enclosed bin, add as you go Chapter | A small yard, balcony or side space. NYC outdoor guide says enclosed bins suit small yards, roof gardens and terraces. | Food scraps: yes, covered with browns. Meat, fish and dairy: no (EPA, Composting at Home). Yard waste: yes, in small amounts (NYC outdoor guide). | Add scraps as they come and cover each with 4 to 8 inches of dry leaves or other browns (EPA, Composting at Home). Check the moisture now and then. No turning is required. | About three to five months for a well-kept pile; a year if left untended (EPA, Composting at Home). | Usually not enough to kill disease organisms and weed seeds (Oregon State EM 9475). | Rodent resistance depends on the build. EPA, Composting at Home says no gaps larger than 1/4 inch; Oregon State EM 9475 adds 1/4 inch hardware cloth on the bottom against rats, mice and raccoons. | A bin with a lid, a steady supply of browns and a place to keep them. Enclosed bins can have limited airflow and may need more water (New York DEC guide). | NYC outdoor guide, EPA, Composting at Home, Oregon State EM 9475, New York DEC guide |
| Open bin or pile, slow Chapter | A yard spot with room for a bin or pile. | Food scraps: yes, buried and covered with browns. Meat, fish and dairy: no. Yard waste: yes. | Add materials as they come and cover food scraps with browns. Mixing now and then is optional. The pile is left to work (EPA, Composting at Home, New York DEC guide). | About a year if left untended (EPA, Composting at Home); one to two years (NC State AG-791); six months to two years (Utah State). | Not reliably. UVM Three Ways says most compost piles do not get hot enough to kill seeds or pathogens. | Weakest of the bins. New York DEC guide lists no barrier against pets and pests, and NYC outdoor guide says holding units should not take food scraps. | Space, a supply of browns, and for food scraps a bin or hardware cloth. An open pile suits yard waste better than kitchen scraps. | EPA, Composting at Home, New York DEC guide, NC State AG-791, Utah State, UVM Three Ways, NYC outdoor guide |
| Two- or three-bin hot system Chapter | Room for two or three bins and a staging area; about a cubic yard of material at once. | Food scraps: yes, in a mixed batch. Meat, fish and dairy: no (EPA, Composting at Home). Yard waste: yes, chopped. A batch is built at once, not fed daily. | Collect enough material, build the batch, read the center temperature, and turn when the center cools. Oregon State gives 5 to 10 days as the first interval (Oregon State EM 9475); NC State and Clemson say weekly (NC State AG-791, Clemson HGIC 1600). | About a month, then four to six weeks of curing (Oregon State EM 9475). Sources range from six weeks to five months (Missouri G6956, EPA, Composting at Home). | Yes. EPA, Composting at Home gives 130 to 160°F for a well-maintained pile. Home figures differ, and the center is hotter than the edges. | Same as any bin: depends on the build and on keeping meat and dairy out. | About a cubic yard of material at once, a long-stem thermometer, browns and greens, and someone to turn it (WSU Whatcom brochure lists the questions to ask yourself). | Clemson HGIC 1600, WSU Whatcom brochure, EPA, Composting at Home, Oregon State EM 9475, NC State AG-791, Missouri G6956 |
| Leaf cage or leaf mold Chapter | Room for a cage 3 to 6 feet across and at least 3 feet tall (Penn State leaves), or a large bag. | Food scraps: no; this is a leaf method. Meat, fish and dairy: no. Yard waste: leaves. | Pack leaves into the cage, water them, and wait. Shredding, occasional turning and watering speed it up (Penn State leaves). | A couple of years for whole leaves; six to twelve months if shredded and tended (Penn State leaves); one to two years (UGA leaf mold). | No source read describes it as heating. | No food goes in, so there is little to attract animals. The sources do not rate it. | Leaves, a mower to shred them if you want speed, and water. Leaf mold is low in nutrients and is used as mulch or a soil amendment (Penn State leaves). | Penn State leaves, UGA leaf mold |
| Grasscycling Chapter | A lawn. | Food scraps: no. Meat, fish and dairy: no. Yard waste: grass clippings left on the lawn. | Leave the clippings and mow often enough that they do not clump. Remove clumps left after prolonged rain once they are dry (Penn State clippings). | Clippings break down fast; one study suggests less than one week (UGA grasscycling). | No. | Not applicable; nothing to bury or contain. | A mower and a lawn that has not been treated with a persistent herbicide (Leaves, grass and yard). Clippings do not cause thatch (Penn State clippings). | UGA grasscycling, Penn State clippings |
| Electric food recycler Not a composting method Chapter | A countertop and an outlet. | Food scraps: dries and grinds them. Meat, fish and dairy: check the maker's list. Yard waste: no. | Fill it, run the cycle, and move the output somewhere that can use it. | Not applicable. The output is dried and ground food, not compost, by BioCycle, the Illinois coalition, a 2023 study and one maker (BioCycle on dehydrators, Illinois coalition on dehydrators, Azis 2023 study, Mill (a maker)). | External heat, roughly 165 to 275°F for 4 to 20 hours, kills the microbes (BioCycle on dehydrators); that is drying, not composting. | Not rated. BioCycle's trials found mold and animal interest in the dried output used directly. | A pile, worm bin, bed or program that accepts the output. See Kitchen and collection. | BioCycle on dehydrators, Illinois coalition on dehydrators, Azis 2023 study, Mill (a maker) |
Limits
This table reports what sources say each method needs and accepts. It does not say which method will work for your household, and it does not rank them. Times are ranges from different sources under different conditions. Rules on bins, animals, collection and fines are local; ask your landlord, association or city. The electric food recycler row is here because households ask about it; it is not a composting method. If a method turns out to be more than you can keep up, change the method; Your compost system covers the review.
Where these come from. Agency, university extension and city program pages, each linked in its row and fetched on 2026-10-26. The comparison of sources that disagree is in Choose your system and the chapter for each method. Prices, where given, are one agency's range.